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A Cartoonish Sandwich Comes to Life

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If the Dagwood seems like a cartoonish sandwich, that’s because it is. The concept comes from Dagwood Bumstead, a character in Blondie, a comic strip that has been running since the 1930s. In it, Dagwood makes mile-high sandwiches with whatever he has in his fridge—meats and cheeses and sometimes a whole fish, all speared with a olive-topped toothpick. It’s over-the-top but delicious, which is exactly what you’re looking for at brunch anyway.

Here’s what goes in Nishi’s version―as told by chef Joshua Pinsky, our own Dagwood Bumstead.

Milk Bread
We get our milk bread from Panya Bakery in Cooper Square. I’ve made Dagwoods with just four slices of bread, but I’ve seen ones with six or seven. That’s too many for me—you still need to be able to eat it.

Roast Chicken
I didn’t want to do deli meats because I thought the sandwich needed a more substantial base. Roast chicken does the trick. This layer also gets caramelized-onion mayonnaise and lettuce.

Sardines
I really wanted to do tuna fish in here but didn’t because people get so sensitive about tuna fish. Sardines sound nicer, plus they’re a reference to the whole fish that often appeared in the comic book Dagwoods. I add piquillo peppers, parsley, and lemon

Pâté
The pâté is the technique-forward part of the sandwich. It’s just a rustic pâté de campagne which is pretty easy as far as terrines go, but I think it’s still a good technique for young cooks to learn. And even though it’s a super classic French preparation, it has a lot of flavor—which is good for our Italian-leaning menu. This layer just gets mustard, pickles, and shallots.

The Long History of the Kakigori Told Briefly

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Shaved ice has (sort of) a history at Momofuku. Other teams around the Momoverse ran lots of tests before it finally found a permanent home on the Majordōmo menu with the kakigori. But the real history of this towering frozen dessert is much older―it dates back to 1000 AD in Japan.

Back then, it was a delicacy, enjoyed only by elites. In a book written by a lady at court about the Imperial Palace, she describes mounds of shaved ice and the people who ate them. These first kakigoris were made from ice blocks stored in ice houses high in the mountains of Kyoto in the winter. When summer arrived, the ice was carted down to the palace, where it was shaved by hand with a knife, piled in high metal bowls, and topped with sweet sap from vines, hydrangeas, and ivy.

It took more than 800 years for the first kakigori shop to open in Yokohama. By then, ice was more readily available―it didn’t have to be stored on the side of a mountain all winter. And when ice-shaving machines were invented in the 1930s, kakigori became even easier to produce.

Even though we’re no longer shaving it by hand with a knife, kakigori is still widely considered to be a serious craft throughout Japan. The process can be quite time-intensive―water is sourced from natural springs, before it’s carefully tempered so that it will shave into paper-thin sheets from a hand-cranked machine. And like in the early days, there is still a heavy emphasis on the local ingredients that go into the flavored syrups.

At Majordōmo, we knew we wanted to serve kakigori because it’s our favorite of all the many types of shaved ice out there. It’s also a way for us to tap into the fresh ingredients and produce we can get locally in California. We plan to change up the flavor a lot. The first one we’re serving is citrus, made with grapefruit and topped with whipped cream and crumbles of meringue. Word is that it reminds Chef Marc Johnson of an orange julius.

What You Need to Know About Japanese Whisky

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Japanese Whisky started in 1918, when chemist Masataka Taketsuru was sent from Japan to the University of Glasgow to study organic chemistry. while there, he spent almost two years apprenticing at whisky distilleries. After returning to japan, he established the first whisky distilleries in Japan at Suntory and Nikka. To this day these distilleries are major players in the Japanese whisky industry.

The first whisky wasn’t successful―it was too inspired by Scotland and too smoky for the Japanese palate. Japanese whisky is successful (and different from Scotch whisky) for three reasons: water, climate, and people. The water in japan is incredibly clear, creating a clean base for the spirit. The summers are also much warmer and the winters still cold. These temperature fluctuations in the barrels give the aging whisky a much deeper and more rapid maturation. Finally, the Japanese are notorious for their unique palates―their whisky is more gentle than its Scottish counterparts, but still very powerful. People in japan drink whisky throughout a meal, so they often want it with ice or water. Japanese whisky is made to hold up to diluting, which makes it ideal for cocktails.

After Taketsuru established his distillery, one of his mentors, Kiichiro Iwai, used notes from Taketsuru’s visit to Scotland and founded his own competing distillery in the 1930s. The Mars Shishu distillery, nestled in valley in the Japanese alps, was mothballed for several years until 2011, returning to full capacity in response to the huge increase in demand for Japanese whisky in recent years.

Here at Momofuku, we serve Japanese whisky on menus and in cocktails across our restaurants. Here are our recommendations for some to try.

BEGINNER
Hibiki Japanese Harmony (Suntory)
You may recognize the bottle―its 24 facets represent the 24 seasons on the Japanese calendar, an entry-level lighter whisky, it’s a true blend with floral aromas with notes of apricot, orange blossom, and clove. We serve it in cocktails such as the hibiki highball at Ssäm bar and mountainside at Nishi.

Iwai Whisky (Mars)

An entry-level whisky from mars, it is inspired by American whisky with a majority of corn balanced with light malt and aged in former bourbon barrels. It’s ideal in a julep or old fashioned, and we love it in a manhattan, since it shares some similarity with American whiskey.

Iwai Tradition (Mars)
A more complex version of the iwai whisky, the tradition is more malt driven. It’s aged in a blend of sherry, bourbon, and wine casks with hints of peat and notes of ripe cherry, honey toffee, and ginger spice. We also serve this whisky at Ko and Ssäm bar, and it’s great as a highball or neat.

INTERMEDIATE
Hakushu 12-year Single Malt Whisky (suntory)

Fans of smoky islay scotches will enjoy this smokey single malt that’s made at Suntory’s Hakushu distillery at the foot of the Japanese alps. Despite more delicate aromas, the smoke note is considerably amplified on the palate, especially on the finish. This whisky is currently on the menu at Ko and Ssäm.

Yamazaki 12-year Single Malt Whisky (Suntory)

Made at Japan’s oldest distillery, this whisky is aged in American, Spanish, and Japanese oaks. It’s more medium-bodied with aromas of dried fruits and honey and a mellow citrus and woody notes on the palate. We currently serve it at Ko.

Komagatake Rindo (Mars)
This whisky officially launched at the 2015 Tokyo whisky festival. aged partially in Japanese wine casks, its blend includes some 20-year-old stock. Notes of earthy peat, marzipan, tobacco round out this whisky. Limited to only 8,200 bottles worldwide, this rare Japanese whisky is currently at Ssäm bar.

EXPERT
Hakushu 18-year Single Malt Whisky (Suntory)

Also made at Suntory’s Hakushu distillery, this whisky is aged a minimum of 18 years. It uses water sourced from Ojira and Jingu rivers, uniquely soft and pure from the granite rocks of the Japanese alps. It has a fruity aroma with orange and pear and notes of pastries, spice, and touches of smoke on the palate. This rare whisky is currently available on the list at ko.